Niacinamide for Large Pores: What % Works, and How Long It Takes
Written and fact-checked by: Mollie Kelly Tufman, PhD (Biochemistry)
Updated November 2025
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases—at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I truly believe in.
If your pores could text, they’d probably scream in all caps: STOP MAGNIFYING MIRRORS. And honestly? Fair. Enlarged pores are one of the top skincare complaints worldwide, and it makes sense — when your skin is oily or textured, those little dots can feel like they’re stealing the spotlight in every bathroom selfie.
Here’s the catch: pore size is mostly genetic. You can’t wave a magic wand (or splash ice water on your face) and make them vanish forever. But what you can do is refine their appearance, keep them clear, and strengthen the skin around them so they look tighter and smoother.
Enter niacinamide — the skincare ingredient that’s kind of like your reliable bestie. It’s not flashy like retinoids, and it doesn’t peel your face off like glycolic acid. But it’s versatile, well-studied, and actually one of the few ingredients with clinical data showing it can make pores look smaller and skin look smoother over time. We’re talking real human studies, not just “my friend on TikTok said so.”
If you’re wondering what actually works for large pores, the short answer from clinical studies is this: niacinamide in the 2–10% range, used consistently for about 8–12 weeks, can visibly reduce shine, smooth texture, and make pores look smaller (not erased, but way less of a main character).
What Niacinamide Actually Does in Skin (Science, Not Hype)
Niacinamide is the water-soluble form of vitamin B3 (yep, the same vitamin that shows up in fortified cereal). In skin, it’s involved in energy metabolism and DNA repair, but what really matters for pores is how it affects oil production, barrier function, and elasticity.
Here’s what the research actually shows in plain English:
Sebum Regulation: In a randomized clinical trial, a 2% niacinamide moisturizer significantly reduced facial sebum excretion within four weeks. Translation: less greasy shine and fewer pores that look “stretched” from excess oil sitting at the surface (Draelos, 2006).
Barrier Strengthening: Multiple studies show niacinamide increases ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the skin and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is science-speak for “your barrier stops leaking moisture like a broken faucet” (Gehring, 2004; Draelos, 2005). Stronger barrier = calmer, less inflamed skin and “firmer” pore edges.
Elasticity & Firmness: Niacinamide has been shown to improve elasticity, fine lines, and overall skin texture in aging skin. One long-term facial study found improvements in wrinkles, yellowing, and firmness with regular use of niacinamide-containing products (Bissett et al., 2005). Firmer, more resilient skin around the follicle opening means pores don’t sag and stretch with time as dramatically.
Anti-Inflammatory & Brightening: Niacinamide can reduce redness and uneven pigmentation and may help blunt some of the oxidative stress from UV and pollution (Bissett et al., 2005; Boo, 2021). That doesn’t physically “close” a pore, but smoother, more even skin makes pores less obvious overall.
🔬 Quick science check: Most niacinamide studies don’t literally measure “pore diameter” with calipers. They measure things like oil flow, roughness, pigmentation, and elasticity — all of which change how large or small pores appear on the skin’s surface.
The nice part? Niacinamide is generally well-tolerated across skin types — oily, acne-prone, dry, sensitive. Compared to harsher actives (strong acids, aggressive retinoids), it’s a low-drama workhorse that quietly makes everything look a little better in the background.
So no, niacinamide doesn’t slam pores shut (they’re not tiny doors). But it can lower the oil that stretches them, support the proteins that keep skin springy, and calm the inflammation that makes texture stand out. Visually? That often reads as “smaller pores” in the mirror.
What % of Niacinamide Actually Works for Pores?
Skincare isn’t chili — you can’t just dump in more niacinamide like it’s cayenne and assume higher = better. The clinical data suggest there’s a performance window where niacinamide does its best work, and then a point where you’re mostly buying bragging rights (and maybe irritation).
2–5%: The Clinical Minimum
We have the best evidence in this range. That 2% niacinamide study that showed reduced sebum excretion? It happened in just four weeks of use (Draelos, 2006). At 2–5%, you’re already:
- Signaling your sebaceous glands to chill a bit
- Supporting barrier lipids like ceramides (Gehring, 2004)
- Improving overall texture and evenness over time
Formulas in the 4–5% range often show visible improvements in roughness and pore appearance with good tolerability, which is why a lot of moisturizers and “support serums” sit here quietly doing great work.
5–10%: The Sweet Spot for Pores + Glow
Most dedicated niacinamide serums land around 10%, and that’s not random. At these levels, you’re getting more noticeable:
- Oil-control benefits (less mid-day shine, fewer clogged-looking pores)
- Barrier and texture support
- Brightening of uneven tone and post-acne marks (Bissett et al., 2005; Boo, 2021)
For many people, 5–10% is the “I can actually see a difference” range without a big jump in irritation risk. Think of it like choosing cold brew instead of regular iced coffee — stronger effects, still pretty easy to tolerate.
10–12%+: The “Do You Really Need It?” Zone
Yes, you’ll see serums labeled 12% niacinamide and higher. And no, they’re not automatically dangerous — niacinamide is still one of the more gentle actives out there.
But here’s the nuance: the published data don’t show a dramatic leap in benefit above ~10%. You’re not doubling results just because you doubled the percentage. What you are doing is increasing the chance of flushing, tingling, or sensitivity in people whose skin already runs reactive.
That doesn’t mean high-percentage products are useless. Some very oily, congestion-prone skin types like them. But most of the pore, texture, and barrier benefits can be achieved comfortably in the 2–10% range.
Bottom line: For pores, 2–10% is where the magic realistically happens. You’ll see meaningful improvements starting at 2%, with 5–10% giving the most noticeable payoff for oil control + texture + overall skin quality. Anything higher is more about preference and formulation than “way better science.”
How Long Does Niacinamide Take to Work on Pores?
If you’re hoping niacinamide will swoop in like a Marvel superhero and erase your pores overnight… I love the optimism, but skincare doesn’t work like a filter. The good news? Niacinamide does work — if you give it an honest shot.
Weeks 2–4: The Oil Check
One of the earliest, most consistent effects of niacinamide is sebum regulation. In that 2% moisturizer study, researchers saw reduced sebum excretion rates by week 4 (Draelos, 2006). In real life, this looks like:
- Less forehead shine halfway through the day
- Fewer “stretched” looking pores in the oiliest zones
- Makeup not sliding off quite so fast
Around Week 8: Visible Refinement
As oil regulation and barrier support keep stacking, you start to see more noticeable improvements in texture and pore visibility. Studies looking at niacinamide-containing products around the 8–12 week mark report smoother skin, improved elasticity, and better overall tone (Bissett et al., 2005; Draelos, 2005).
This is usually when you notice that foundation sits more smoothly, pores don’t catch light as harshly, and skin looks more “refined” in selfies — not poreless, but less busy.
Week 12 and Beyond: The Long Game
After about 12 weeks of consistent use, niacinamide has had time to flex its full résumé:
- More balanced oil production
- Stronger, more resilient barrier
- Smoother texture
- More even tone and less redness
Think of it like compound interest for your skin. The longer you keep it in your routine, the more those subtle gains add up.
Important reality check: Niacinamide isn’t a one-and-done treatment. If you stop using it, your oil production and texture will drift back toward baseline. It’s more like going to the gym than getting a one-time procedure — you keep the benefits by staying consistent.
Best Niacinamide Products for Pores
Alright, science class over. Let’s talk about what actually deserves space on your sink. You do not need seven different niacinamide products in one routine — that’s how you end up with irritation and an empty wallet.
Pick one good niacinamide step that fits your skin type and the rest of your routine, then commit to using it consistently for at least 8–12 weeks.
Here are some of the strongest niacinamide-containing options for refining pores, balancing oil, and supporting your barrier — from budget to bougie.
💸 Budget Buys (Effective Without Wrecking Your Wallet)
- The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% — cult classic for oily/combo skin; balances shine without stripping.
👉 Check price on Amazon - CeraVe PM Moisturizing Lotion — gentle, lightweight moisturizer with niacinamide + ceramides for barrier support.
👉 Check price on Amazon
💎 Mid-End Picks (Science Meets Skincare Chic)
- Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster — silky booster at the sweet-spot strength; layers with anything.
👉 Check price on Amazon - Sunday Riley B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum — luxe take on niacinamide; oil control, barrier support, smoother texture.
👉 Check price on Amazon - La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer — derm-trusted, fragrance-free; niacinamide + ceramides.
👉 Check price on Amazon
✨ Luxury Splurge (Because Science Loves a Little Glam)
- Tatcha The Water Cream — lightweight gel-cream with niacinamide + botanicals; dewy, never greasy.
👉 Check price on Amazon - Augustinus Bader The Cream — luxe, science-forward; niacinamide + TFC8® for pores + anti-aging in one.
👉 Check price on Amazon
Pro tip: You don’t need all seven. Pick one serum or moisturizer you’ll actually use daily. Niacinamide rewards consistency, not a crowded bathroom shelf.
How to Use Niacinamide (So It Helps Your Pores, Not Your Irritation)
So you’ve picked your niacinamide product. Now let’s make sure it’s working for your skin, not just sitting there looking impressive in your routine graphic.
When to Use It
Niacinamide is the ultimate team player — it works in the morning, at night, or both. Most people are fine using it once daily, but if your skin tolerates it, twice daily is usually still gentle enough.
That said, consistency beats enthusiasm. Using a good niacinamide product once a day for 3+ months will do more for your pores than slathering three different ones on your face for a week and then quitting.
How to Layer It
General rule of thumb: apply niacinamide after cleansing and any watery toners/essences, and before thicker creams or face oils.
- If it’s a serum: use it after toner (if you’re using one) and before moisturizer.
- If it’s in your moisturizer: skip the serum version — you don’t need to double up.
Niacinamide plays nicely with most common actives, including retinoids, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and azelaic acid. The old “niacinamide and vitamin C cancel each other out” fear comes from outdated lab conditions that don’t match modern formulations.
What to Avoid
The main trap is overdoing it. Using a niacinamide toner, a 10% serum, and a niacinamide-rich moisturizer in the same routine doesn’t triple your results — it just increases your chances of sensitivity.
Pick one main niacinamide step and let it do its job. If your skin is very reactive, start at 2–5% a few times a week and build up.
And a quick reminder: niacinamide can support your barrier, but it doesn’t replace sunscreen. If you want any pore progress (or anti-aging progress) to actually stick, SPF is non-negotiable.
Common Niacinamide Questions (and a Few Myths to Ditch)
Does niacinamide actually shrink pores?
Not literally. Pores aren’t tiny doors that open and close. What niacinamide does is regulate oil, strengthen the surrounding skin, and improve elasticity — all of which make pores look smaller and less noticeable.
Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C?
Yes. Modern formulas are designed to be compatible, and clinical data support benefits from both. Vitamin C brings brightening and antioxidant support; niacinamide adds barrier and texture support — they’re more of a tag team than enemies.
Is 20% niacinamide better than 10%?
Not necessarily. Most of the well-documented benefits plateau around 5–10%. Some people love higher percentages, especially for very oily or uneven skin, but the main thing that increases is the risk of irritation, not the guarantee of extra pore blurring.
Can sensitive skin use niacinamide?
Yes — in fact, it’s one of the better-tolerated actives for sensitive or redness-prone skin. Starting with 2–5% can help reinforce the barrier and reduce redness without a lot of drama (Gehring, 2004; Draelos, 2005).
What happens if I stop using it?
Think of niacinamide like a good workout routine. The benefits last as long as you keep showing up. If you stop completely, oil production, texture, and tone will gradually drift back toward where you started.
Final Takeaway
Niacinamide won’t erase your pores (no ingredient can). But it can make them look smaller and smoother by dialing down oil, firming up the “pore walls,” and supporting a calm, resilient barrier.
The sweet spot for most people is 2–10%, with early oil-control changes showing up around 2–4 weeks and more noticeable texture and elasticity improvements stacking in by 8–12 weeks. It’s not instant magic — but as far as gentle, science-backed pore helpers go, niacinamide is one of the most reliable ingredients you can commit to.
Pick a formula that fits your skin type and routine, stick with it, and give it time. Your pores may never be invisible, but they absolutely don’t have to be the main event on your face.
Want to Dig Deeper?
Pair niacinamide with the right exfoliant for stubborn congestion. How to choose the right BHA.
Prefer AHAs for texture? Compare your options before layering. Mandelic vs glycolic vs lactic—what to use when.
Ready to buy? See the best budget-to-bougie actives for pores.
References
Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun;8(2):96-101. PubMed
Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul;31(7 Pt 2):860-5; discussion 865. PubMed
Boo YC. Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021 Aug 21;10(8):1315. PubMed
Gehring W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Apr;3(2):88-93. PubMed
Draelos ZD, Ertel K, Berge C. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis. 2005 Aug;76(2):135-41. PubMed
