Why Your Blackheads Keep Coming Back (Even With Salicylic Acid & Actives)

Written and fact-checked by: Mollie Kelly Tufman, PhD (Biochemistry)

Updated January 2026

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases—at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I truly believe in.

Let’s Get Real: You’re Doing “All the Right Things”

You’re exfoliating. You’re masking. You’ve got a salicylic acid serum, a clay mask you only use on Wednesdays, and even that one toner your cousin swears by. So why—why—are those little black dots still hanging out on your nose like it’s their full-time job? If you’ve ever thought, “Why do my blackheads keep coming back — even after salicylic acid?” you’re exactly who this post is for.

First of all: you’re not doing anything wrong. Blackheads are stubborn little suckers, and most of us have them—especially in oilier zones like the nose, chin, and cheeks. But here’s the plot twist no one tells you: sometimes, even the “right” skincare steps don’t get to the real problem.

This post is your no-BS guide to what’s actually behind persistent blackheads (even if you’ve got a shelf full of actives). We’re breaking down the sneaky reasons your pores are still clogged, what science says about sebaceous filaments, and what really works—without nuking your skin barrier.

Let’s go pore-deep. 🫠

What Blackheads Actually Are (And What They’re Not)

Let’s clear something up—literally. Not every dark speck on your nose is a blackhead.

In fact, most of what you think are blackheads might actually be sebaceous filaments. And treating the two like they’re the same? That’s where things go sideways.

Blackheads are open comedones—tiny hair follicles clogged with dead skin and oil that’s been exposed to air and oxidized. They’re usually raised, stubborn, and take their sweet time to leave.

Sebaceous filaments, on the other hand, are your skin’s built-in oil transport system. They’re supposed to be there. They sit flatter, look more uniform, and come back no matter how many acids or masks you throw at them.

Think of it like this:

Blackheads = unwanted guests.
Sebaceous filaments = annoying roommates who actually pay rent.

The problem? A lot of skincare advice lumps them together. That’s how we end up scrubbing, peeling, and vacuuming our skin into submission—only to still see dots in the mirror.

Knowing the difference is step one. Step two? Treating the actual issue instead of going full exorcism on your pores.

Need a step-by-step on using BHA for blackheads? See how to pick (and use) the right BHA for clogged pores.

The Real Culprits: 5 Reasons Blackheads Stick Around

Why Blackheads Keep Refilling in the Same Spot

You’ve got your BHA. You’re double cleansing. You even resist the urge to pick (most of the time). So what gives?

Here are the five science-backed reasons your blackheads are still holding the line—even with actives in play:

1. You’re Over-Exfoliating

More exfoliation ≠ better results. When you go too hard with acids or scrubs, you can damage your skin barrier—and that kicks off a vicious cycle.

A compromised barrier = more oil, more buildup, and ironically... more clogged pores.
Sometimes the issue isn’t that your products aren’t strong enough—it’s that your skin is too irritated to benefit from them.

2. Your Actives Aren’t Penetrating Deep Enough

Not all exfoliants are created equal. Some (like glycolic acid) work on the surface, while others (like salicylic acid) go deep into pores. If you’re using the wrong one—or it’s in the wrong pH or formula—it might never reach the gunk you’re trying to break down.

Actives only work if they can actually get where they’re needed.

3. You’re Skipping Hydration

Dehydrated skin can lead to thicker, stickier sebum that’s more likely to clog pores. It also slows your skin’s natural exfoliation cycle, leaving dead skin cells hanging around longer than they should.

The fix? Layer in hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and don’t skip your moisturizer—yes, even if you’re oily.

4. You’re Messing With Your Skin’s Oil Balance

Think skipping moisturizer or using harsh cleansers will “dry up” your blackheads? Think again.

When your skin feels stripped, it goes into panic mode and produces more oil to compensate. That excess oil can mix with dead skin and clog things right back up.

Balanced skin = happy pores.

Oil regulation is one of the most overlooked pieces of blackhead control. Niacinamide helps reduce excess sebum so pores don’t keep refilling with debris.

5. You’re Using the Wrong Actives for Your Skin Type

Not every active works the same for every skin type. For example, glycolic acid (an AHA) is great for surface glow but doesn’t do much inside your pores. Salicylic acid (a BHA), on the other hand, is oil-soluble and dives deep.

Some skin types respond better to gentler actives like PHAs, or need a combo of actives to see results—like salicylic acid paired with a retinoid.

What Does Help (Backed by Science)

Let’s skip the gimmicks and get into what actually clears blackheads—without wrecking your barrier or your patience. These ingredients have legit research behind them, and they’ve earned their spot in your skincare lineup:

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

This is your MVP. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can slide right into your pores and break up the gunk from the inside.

Use it in a cleanser for mild maintenance, or a leave-on treatment for deeper exfoliation.

Try: Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
👉 Check price on Amazon

Retinoids

These vitamin A derivatives speed up cell turnover, keep dead skin from piling up, and help prevent future clogs. They’re also backed by decades of research on acne and comedones.

Try: Differin Gel (Adapalene 0.1%)
👉 Check price on Amazon

Or if you’re ready to level up: Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
👉 Check price on Amazon

Niacinamide

This oil-balancing all-star helps regulate sebum production, strengthens your skin barrier, and plays nicely with both BHAs and retinoids. It’s one of the best non-irritating ingredients for blackhead-prone skin.

Try: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
👉 Check price on Amazon

Or upgrade to a smoother texture: Naturium Niacinamide Serum 12% + Zinc 2%
👉 Check price on Amazon

Clay Masks

Clay absorbs excess oil and can help reduce the appearance of clogged pores. But the key is using it in moderation—think 1–2x per week max.

Try: Innisfree Volcanic Clay Mask
👉 Check price on Amazon

Gentle Cleansers with Actives

A cleanser with salicylic acid can help you maintain clear pores—without overdoing it.

Try: CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser
👉 Check price on Amazon

What Doesn’t Help (Sorry, TikTok)

Let’s lovingly escort some of these overhyped fixes to the skincare graveyard. If you’ve tried these and your blackheads are still thriving, you’re not alone—because the science doesn’t back them up.

Pore Strips

Sure, it’s satisfying. But those little forest strips you pull out? Mostly sebaceous filaments—not blackheads. And the adhesive can actually irritate your skin, making oil production worse.

It’s like pulling weeds without getting the roots. They’ll be back in a week… angrier.

Harsh Scrubs

If your exfoliator feels like sandpaper, put it down.

Scrubs with large, jagged particles (like walnut shells) can create microtears in your skin. They don’t clear your pores—they just make your face mad. And inflammation? It’s blackhead fertilizer.

DIY Toothpaste or Lemon “Masks”

Nope. Just no. These mess with your skin’s pH and can cause serious irritation.

Toothpaste is for teeth. Lemons are for cocktails. Let’s not burn our faces in the name of experimentation.

Over-Cleansing

Washing your face four times a day won’t wash the blackheads away.

Too much cleansing strips your skin, damages your barrier, and leads to rebound oiliness. That oil? It’s coming back with a vengeance—and bringing blackheads along for the ride.

Thinking You Can “Close” Pores

Pores aren’t doors. They don’t open and close.

You can reduce their appearance by keeping them clean and minimizing inflammation, but anyone promising to “close” them for good is selling snake oil in cute packaging.

Pore appearance is driven by oil, elasticity, and buildup — not temperature or tools. Here’s what science actually says about what can (and can’t) change pore appearance.

---

The Final Takeaway (and What to Do Next)

Here’s the truth: blackheads aren’t a sign that your skincare routine sucks. They’re just stubborn. And treating them isn’t about nuking your face with the strongest acid you can find—it’s about strategy, consistency, and knowing what actually works.

🧪 Use actives that actually penetrate pores (hi, salicylic acid).
🧼 Keep your skin balanced—not stripped.
🙅‍♀️ Ditch the gimmicks (looking at you, lemon juice).
💧Don’t forget to hydrate. Oily ≠ moisturized.

Blackheads don’t vanish overnight—but with the right combo of ingredients and habits, you’ll start seeing smoother, clearer skin that stays that way.

---

📚 References

1. Cunliffe WJ, Holland DB, Jeremy A. Comedone formation: etiology, clinical presentation, and treatment. Clin Dermatol. 2004 Sep-Oct;22(5):367-74. PubMed

2. Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Aug 26;8:455-61. PubMed

3. Kessler E, Flanagan K, Chia C, Rogers C, Glaser DA. Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg. 2008 Jan;34(1):45-50; discussion 51. PubMed

4. Leyden J, Stein-Gold L, Weiss J. Why Topical Retinoids Are Mainstay of Therapy for Acne. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2017 Sep;7(3):293-304. PubMed

5. Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun;8(2):96-101. PubMed

6. Thiboutot D, Del Rosso JQ. Acne Vulgaris and the Epidermal Barrier: Is Acne Vulgaris Associated with Inherent Epidermal Abnormalities that Cause Impairment of Barrier Functions? Do Any Topical Acne Therapies Alter the Structural and/or Functional Integrity of the Epidermal Barrier? J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013 Feb;6(2):18-24. PubMed

7. Lee SJ, Seok J, Jeong SY, Park KY, Li K, Seo SJ. Facial Pores: Definition, Causes, and Treatment Options. Dermatol Surg. 2016 Mar;42(3):277-85. PubMed

8. Tokumura F, Umekage K, Sado M, Otsuka S, Suda S, Taniguchi M, Yamori A, Nakamura A, Kawai J, Oka K. Skin irritation due to repetitive application of adhesive tape: the influence of adhesive strength and seasonal variability. Skin Res Technol. 2005 May;11(2):102-6. PubMed